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The Complete AHA, BHA and PHA guide for Skincare Formulation

Introduction

Modern skincare has evolved far beyond simple cleansing and moisturizing. Today’s  consumers want visible results, faster performance, and scientifically proven actives that  transform the skin without compromising safety. At the center of this transformation lies one  of the most powerful categories in cosmetic science – hydroxy acids.  

This masterclass is designed to take you deep into the science, formulation chemistry, and  real-world application of Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), and  Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs). These ingredients are not just exfoliants; they are cell-renewal  accelerators, texture-refining agents, melanin-modulating actives, and key components in  clinical-grade and professional skincare.

AHAs, BHAs and PHAs each interact with the skin differently – penetration depth, molecular  size, keratolytic effect, and barrier interaction all vary across this group of acids.  Understanding these differences is what separates a beginner formulator from a confident  cosmetic chemist.

In this eBook, you will move beyond surface-level definitions into the biochemistry of  exfoliation, the mechanisms of desquamation, and the role of pH, concentration, and  buffering systems in creating safe yet effective hydroxy acid formulations. You will learn how  these acids modulate cell-to-cell cohesion, influence epidermal turnover, improve pigment  irregularities, and enhance the absorption of other actives.

You will also explore the realities of formulation challenges (instability, irritation, pH  conflicts, solubility concerns, ingredient incompatibilities) and how to solve them using  professional formulation strategies, synergistic ingredient pairing, and step-by-step  formulation frameworks.

This Masterclass is intentionally crafted for:

  • Formulators who want to master exfoliating systems
  • Skincare entrepreneurs who want to create high-performance products
  • Product sellers and estheticians who want to understand how these actives work
  • Skincare enthusiasts looking to decode products with science-backed knowledge

By the end of this masterclass, you will not only understand how to use AHAs, BHAs, and  PHAs-you will be able to formulate with confidence, predict how they behave in a formula, and create results-driven exfoliating products that meet global skincare standards

Course Outline

MODULE 1

  • Skin physiology and exfoliation science . Structure of the skin
  • Exfoliation depth (superficial,medium,deep) and what cosmetic product can achieve
  • Different between physical and chemical exfoliation

MODULE 2

  • Understanding AHAs types
  • Mechanical of action
  • Solubility, penetration and pH requirements
  • Usage rate and safety

MODULE 3

  • Understanding BHAs and derivatives
  • Mechanism of action
  • Best uses for acne,oily skin and congestion
  • Usage rate and safety

MODULE 4

  • Introducing PHAs types
  • Benefits Vs AHAs
  • Usage rate and skin compatibility

MODULE 5

  • Comparative science of AHAs,BHAs and PHAs
  • Strengths , weaknesses and best skin concerns for each
  • Combining acids in Formulation safely
  • Selecting acids based on skin types and target market

MODULE 6

  • pH, stability and neutralization
  • Why pH matters in hydroxyl acids formulations
  • Safe pH ranges for AHAs,BHAs and PHAs
  • Free Acids value and total concentration
  • Buffers,neutralisers and stabilisers

How to avoid irritation and over exfoliation

MODULE 7

  • Formulation workshop
  • Creating Exfoliating serums ,toners ,cleansers and peels
  • Step by step Formulation process with % ranges
  • Choosing Emulsifiers ,solvent and penetration enhancers

MODULE 8

  • Professional practice and safety guidelines
  • Maximum allowable concentration (EU,FDA,Africa guidelines)
  • Patch testing and client safety education
  • Building effective exfoliation routines for consumers
  • Trouble shooting common issues (irritation , instability and poor results )

FAQ

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Course Details:

THE COMPLETE AHA, BHA AND PHA GUIDE FOR SKINCARE FORMULATION

Course Price:

2,500.00

Instructor

Abigeal Kemisola​

Module

1 - 8

Language:

English

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Purpliish Beauty Academy was founded with a passion for science-backed skincare formulation and a mission to empower individuals with the knowledge to create effective, high-performance skincare products.

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